267. Sunday 12th August 2012. A week exploring Eurobodalla Shire and Bega Valley Shire…

Monday 6th August.

Be prepared for many photos in the post this week.

I woke to warm sunshine, unadulterated by clouds, streaming in through the kitchen window at 7am.

I took a walk to the beach while the CO-PILOT slept on. It was 9° when I was eating cereal and cold milk for breakfast. My walk first took me along the break-wall and the river entrance where I could see the township of Moruya in the distance. An interesting fact is the granite used for the break-wall was quarried locally.

The Moruya Breakwall is built from the same granite as the Sydney Harbour Bridge Pylons and the Martin Place Cenotaph. All were quarried locally.

This is the same granite used in the four Sydney Harbour Bridge Pylons.  Around 250 stonemasons moved to Moruya to cut, dress and number the blocks before loading aboard three specifically built ships to carry the stone to Sydney. Incidentally the huge granite centre block of the Sydney Martin Place Cenotaph is also from the Moruya quarry. It weighs 20 tonne, has been polished to a high gloss and workers at Moruya were fearful the weight would be too great for the ship and would cause it to sink. Thankfully that never happened.

Walking back the other way were the rocks and steep cliff faces. I hoped to be able to walk to the deep cliff crevice where we saw the seals yesterday. I was unable to reach that place as another deep cleft in the cliffs halted progress. This cleft ended in a cave carved by the action of the waves.

Wave worn cave.

There were no seals around the rocks this morning. Perhaps I was too early. Despite that I sat on the rocks and enjoyed the sound of the waves washing in and out of the cave while small honeyeaters and robins and wrens chirped in the shrubbery in the cliffs above. The sunshine, the sea, the sounds of nature are the reasons we took on this journey which started two years ago. Just to be able to sit on this rocky headland and enjoy by absorption is therapeutic. If I can enjoy this calm once a week it will be enough. Of course every day would be so much better. A lone surfer was in the water when I arrived at the river mouth. Later, after breakfast I did the walk again with the CO-PILOT.

After visiting Moruya for groceries we were once again on the Princes Highway heading south but not for long as we reached the little town of Bodalla, famous for its dairy produce, particularly cheese and turned off to the coastal village of Potato Point.

Hmmm! I seem to find trig points in our travels.

A local visited us and gave a potted history of the name. Once there was a jetty in place to take on dairy produce and deliver other goods for the village of Bodalla. The location was only known by its aboriginal name. During a big storm, a ship carrying a cargo of vegetables, mostly potatoes was trying to make the relative calm of the jetty.

Remains of Potato Point jetty. Holes carved into the rocks also attest to where other timbers were once installed.

The ship was wrecked and miraculously all on board survived (that piece if news is incredible as the rocks around the area are like thousands of huge knife blades) the cargo washed into the sea and for days afterwards potatoes were recovered from the rocks.

Some rusting remains of heavy machinery from the days when the jetty was still in use.

Henceforth the area was called Potato Point. I do not know if that is the full truth but the local man insists it is. We walked around those rocks and I must comment how difficult that was with the knife like rocks ready to snap an ankle or cause a fall on to the sharp edges. I heard a fisherman cursing at something in the water. A family of five seals were swimming around his bait. I watched as they swam close to the rocks and caught a fish, slapping it against the water only a few metres from my position on the rocks.

One of the cheeky seals chasing fish the fisherman was trying to catch. Score= Seals 1 Fisherman nil.

Later on our walk back to our campsite in the gathering dusk, we disturbed an Eastern Grey Kangaroo. Once more I was too slow with the camera. The big Eastern Grey stood well over two metres and probably weighed as much as me but he looked to be all muscle. He looked down on us for a few moments before going about his business.

Camped beside Potato Point Creek.

We are camped beside a delightful watercourse with the sound of the surf nearby

View of Potato Point Creek from outside our kitchen and bedroom window.

Judging by the afternoon coolness we expect a cold night.

Tuesday 7th August

The Eastern Grey Kangaroo we saw last night.

It turned out to be the coldest August night in New South Wales in 12 years. For example Tumut recorded a low of -6° and when I ventured out from under the warmth of the doona at 7am discovered the temp inside WWWGO was only 5°.

Bridge over the creek and access to National Park and campground in the next bay.

Clear water and Bull Kelp at Potato Point.

A walk along the beach in the brisk morning air showed the waves lapping the beach were leaving a red line on the sand. I noticed some movement and on a closer inspection found the red spots were in fact tiny creatures with a similar look as a prawn. In fact there were prawns of various sizes mixed among the red as well as a clear jelly like creature like a torpedo shaped fish. The seagulls liked whatever was in the mix as they walked along the beach pecking away in a feast stretching along the entire beach. Local fishermen thought the red creatures and prawn mix may be krill and the reason why so many salmon are along the coast feeding.

Krill perhaps? Still waiting on positive ID reply from NSW Fisheries.

Later in the morning we found a dolphin shaped jelly creature which had a firm dorsal fin and what seemed to be another fin on the belly, a snout, eyes and what appeared to be a mouth. It was also alive so I returned it to the ocean. Local pro fishermen had no idea what it was.

Dolphin shaped jelly. Also waiting on NSW Fisheries to identify it.

Potato Point from north end of beach.

We drove another 30 klms to Dalmeny on the outskirts of Narooma and set up camp in the caravan park overlooking the ocean.

View of Dalmeny Beach from our kitchen window.

As the nights have been particularly cold and bad weather predicted for Thursday we felt being in a van park with 240 volts would be to our advantage.

Footbridge to Dalmeny Beach.

We dined with Ilya and Judy N at their home. They were neighbours when I lived in Kanahooka many years ago. It was wonderful catching up with them again. (Last time was in 2009 on our way to Tasmania)

Wednesday 8th August

Dalmeny morning.

Along with Judy we visited the Narooma Marine Rescue Headquarters in Narooma.

Narooma marine Rescue Headquarters.

This is a composite view of Narooma waterway as seen from the Marine Resue Headquarters. Double click to see the full size detail.

Ilya does a radio watch on Wednesday each week.

Judy, Ilya and FrankieG at Narooma Marine Rescue.

After his shift at midday we had chilli squid at Taylors Seafood on the river waterfront.

Taylors Seafood

Thursday 9th August.

We woke to a relatively warm morning so I set off along Dalmeny Beach to a set of rocks as my target. I had been told there were a number of Diamond Back Pythons usually sunning early in the morning. Not this morning. I spoke with other people walking the beach and they either confirmed a sighting or they had heard the same story. I did see dolphins surfing and nearby two family groups of seals lazing around on the surface of the ocean just beyond the breakers.

The wind picked up in the afternoon, rocking WWWGO in our exposed position on the hill. The wind continued into the night.

WWWGO in Dalmeny Campgrounds.

Friday 10th August

Footbridge across Lake Mummuga Inlet at Dalmeny.

More wind and the swells are picking up. The wind feels like it is coming directly off the snow. We spent the day looking around the main streets of Narooma and the break-wall at the river entrance.

TERIOS at the break-wall entrance to Wagoonga Inlet Narooma.

We had to wear our quilted coats, beanies and gloves and fight to stay upright in the wind.

Australia Rock at Narooma break-wall.

Saturday 11th August

After another unsuccessful walk to the end of the beach to find the Pythons we decided to drive to Central Tilba.

Overlooking Central Tilba from water tower lookout.

Old style post and rail fence at Central Tilba.

This is a Heritage listed town and most of the buildings were erected somewhere around 1870.

Central Tilba Dromedary Hotel.

The area was once a thriving dairying and timber cutting area which fell into decline some years ago. The locals re-invented the town and it is now a busy little boutique town.

Cart outside shop.

The local cheese factory, ABC Cheese, (the cheese is actually made in Melbourne) has a shop outlet. Another eatery also sells local produce.

Cheese Shop and Boutique eatery.

We were keen to find another Ploughmans Lunch to rival the one fondly remembered when we were in Tasmania. The shop did not even know what a Ploughmans Lunch was but once we explained, an antipasta plate was offered. For the price we received a huge platter with three cheeses of our choice (a brie, a blue vein and a crumbly matured, chilli and pepper cheddar called Firecracker) salami, loads of crackers, olives, dolimades, beetroot dip and hommus dip. It was too much to eat in one sitting. They even gave us a plastic tub to take the leftovers with us. Walking around town was a little like stepping back in time with the shop fronts clearly from another century. We also walked the steep hill behind the town to the “lookout” at the water tank. We were dressed appropriately as the wind was still fierce enough to blow us off our feet and was cold into the bargain.

These toilets at Central Tilba probably deserve a place in the Most Scenic Public Toilets in Australia.

These lower public toilets behind the above public toilets probably also deserve a place in the Most Scenic Public Toilets in Australia.

On our way back to WWWGO we stopped at Mystery Bay to see the big waves crashing over the rocky shoreline.

A pair of White Bellied Sea Eagles flew over us at Mystery Bay.

Afternoon view of Narooma. Note the salt mist from the huge waves.

12th August

In the days we have been camped at Dalmeny we have gone to sleep with and woken to the sound of the surf. The last two days have seen huge seas and although the sound is much louder it has not affected our sleep. No two days are the same.

It was another long and enjoyable day. I took many photos and I have difficulty culling them to just a few each day.

About 80 Klms along the Princes Highway is the town of Bega.

Post and Rail fence outside Bega Cheese factory.

We visited the Bega cheese factory and had a Ploughmans lunch. I was disappointed as much of the lunch menu was pre packed and placed in a refrigerated cabinet. (The lunch was not in the same league as the Ploughmans lunch we had at Pyengana Dairy Company in Tasmania) We then drove on to Tathra where we found the historical Tathra Wharf.

Tasthra historical wharf.

Built in 1860 it played a large part in bringing goods to the area as well as being a passenger terminal and export for cattle, pigs, bacon, dairy products and timber.

This staircase was the original cattle race to load cattle aboard the ships.

The wharf has a trendy café with stunning views across the bay.

Wharf Cafe.

Looking across the bay from inside the wharf cafe.

With the large swells crashing nearby rocks and pumping into Tathra Beach it was a good background to a great cup of coffee.

Interesting photo study.

A sign outside announced today was a Stitch and Bitch Sunday so craft people who knit, sew, crochet etc, get together, have lunch and coffee and umm err, knit, sew, crochet etc. Included in the group were a couple of men, one happily knitting and the other just as happily crocheting.

Man crocheting.

Now there is a sight you do not see every day. The photo opportunities were endless and included about 20 people fishing from the wharf. Fishing for shark is prohibited!

No shark fishing allowed from this wharf.

Another contender for the Most Scenic Public Toilet in Australia.

Although it was getting late in the afternoon we drove on to Gillards Beach in the Mimosa Rocks National Park. The wind was stong and cold and the surf was whipped into frenzy of froth so we did not linger or even stay for photos in the failing light. The tourist drive roughly follows the coastline and lakes and includes photogenic one lane bridges all the way to Bermagui. As the light was failing we did not stop for photos. A pity really but that leaves an excuse to visit again.

Now that we have spent some time along the south coast I am now pleased to say that this section of coastline along with rivers, lakes, estuaries, bays, cliffs and scenic drives is every bit as good as those experienced on the north coast. Surfing spots are great as well. The wineries and cheese makers and other local produce and boutique towns has an appeal which is hard to describe. If you get a chance, visit the south coast of New South Wales.

We were home at WWWGO by 5.30 and could still see the huge swells and breakers rolling into the beach.

It is just after 10pm and I can hear the surf rolling and crashing on rocks and beach no more than 200 metres away.

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6 Responses to “267. Sunday 12th August 2012. A week exploring Eurobodalla Shire and Bega Valley Shire…”

  1. RedRoadDiaries Says:

    lovely scenery. love the kangaroo and scenic toilets as well

    Like

    • frankeeg Says:

      G’day RRD, thanks for your comments. As mentioned in my blog, the senery was wonderful and trying to cull all the photos into just a few to try to capture and represent the feel of the locations was quite a few hours work…every day. Even after all the culling I still had 44 photos in the post. Enjoyed every moment though.

      Like

  2. Sandra Hopkins Says:

    Be careful when camping at Potato Point, area beside the creek belongs to National Parks and Wildlife one side and will not allow camping at all. Rangers are moving people constantly.

    Like

    • frankeeg Says:

      Hello Sandra, thanks for your comment and advice. When we camped at Potato Point – the last time was in 2013 – we camped on the houses side of the creek. We initially only visited the town on a day visit. After speaking with a few locals, they suggested we camp at the bottom of the hill near the creek but not to camp on the other side of the creek as it was National Park. The locals told us they appreciate people staying for a night or two as it seems to discourage partying. That said I must also say that PP is one of our favourite places in our travels. In fact we looked at the possibility of buying and living there. I hope you enjoy the rest of the blog.

      Like

  3. Frank Eden Says:

    Hi, I would love to use one of your photos to advertise an event Narooma Rotary is organising. May I….

    Like

    • frankeeg Says:

      Hello Frank, only part of your message appeared under comments. I have written to you via private email and suggest you contact me that way or perhaps even call me as I have many many photos around Narooma.

      Like

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